Wednesday, May 28, 2008

Montevideo... do not offend nor I fear


I always liked Montevideo

It has its own identity and character, with is even more remarkable considering that has a monster like Buenos Aires very close.
Perhaps to the non discerning eye, the culture on both sides of the “Rio de la Plata” is quite similar... which is true in a sense...

However Montevideo remains much more herself, with a mixture of provincial town, big city culture, massive port, bohemia, tango, Spanish colonial architecture, just awesome meat grills, and an enormous waterfront “rambla” that never finish...

People is quite informal and friendly, not up to them selves... while being professional and effective.
Uruguayan music is very good and alive; there must be at least 20 theatres and 50 venues where life music always takes place, which is amazing for a city of 1.5 million people...

A quite unique style out of there is the “murga” ... which is a form of popular musical theatre... that is performed by a group of a maximum of 17 people, usually men dressed up with very elaborated costumes and each group will prepare a musical play consisting of a suite of songs and recitado (heightened speech) lasting around 40-45 minutes. This suite will be performed on popular stages in the various neighbourhoods, known as tablados.


Content is based on a particular theme, chosen by the group, which serves to provide commentary on events in Uruguay or elsewhere over the preceding year. Consequently, murga lends itself well to being used as a form of popular resistance.

The names are fantastic... but don’t traduce very well... my favorite: “the mushrooms tanners”... (curtidores de hongos)

Besides that, Montevideo maintained a strong African population in its “Barrio Sur” and is very common to see people just taking the streets on a Sunday with the drums and having a go while some old mamas have a dance... just for the fun of it... truly cool.


In any case, I love Montevideo, and really would love to live there for a while... and I love what is written in their cote of arms...
“con libertad no ofendo ni temo” ... “with Freedom I do not offend nor I fear”



see more pictures here